Tag Archives: vintage

15

MAD MEN CHALLENGE: PSYCHEDELIC BATHROBE

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What’s a weekend without new lounge wear?

Mad Men vintage psychedelic bathrobe, made by Julianne

Mad Men Challenge #2

Although I’ve never participated in a challenge before, I was immediately jazzed about Julia Bobbin’s Mad Men Challenge. And although I’ve always been in love with the show’s costumes (especially after reading the ultimate Bitchy Kittens Tom and Lorenzo), the period clothing is mostly not my style. However. I had a amazing pattern from my Grandma, and gorgeous vintage cotton from Hawaii (a gift from my step-sister-in-law Ilaan), and damn if I’m not a sucker for over the top lounge wear.

You better believe I’m designing pajamas to coordinate. Who’s coming over for brunch? This robe is begging for champagne cocktails.

Mad Men vintage psychedelic bathrobe, made by Julianne Continue reading →

I don’t actually smoke, but I love all the scenes with Betty hanging around her house, chain smoking and drinking wine all day. Hilarity. All the ladies have such amazing wardrobes, including their bathrobes. In fact, I think every main female character has appeared on screen in a robe at this point!

Mad Men vintage psychedelic bathrobe, made by Julianne

My design combines two luscious bathrobes from the finale of season 5, called The Phantom. Appearing first is drunk Megan’s psychedelic robe, which has the same large flowers and neon colors as my fabric.

Mad Men s05e13Mad Men s05e13

Trudy’s robe has the frilliness of my pattern. I’d been planning on adding an organza ruffle with contrasting rolled hem, but while my sample looked amazing it was not very soft against my skin. So I have 7 yards of neon pink 5″ wide bias strips waiting for another project…

Mad Men s05e13

Mad Men s05e13

Butterick 3770, made by Julianne

I used Butterick 3770; although I couldn’t find an exact date I know it’s from the 60s. I received this pattern after my grandma died, almost a year ago. Knowing that she cut the pattern and made it for herself was a great connection, and reminded me of the wonderfully frilly dresses she would make for my birthdays. The night that I finished the construction, I dreamed that she was holding my hand throughout all my sleepy-time adventures, and it was a pretty great feeling that lasted all of the next day.

I didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern (except the placement of the belt casing and using 4 buttons instead of 5). The arms are a little high, but that seems to be the style and I didn’t want to mess with it. I finished the seams with my serger, but I may come back with some bias tape. If I were to make this robe again (and had more fabric) I would make the skirt a little more flared in the back, to emphasize the cape.

Although I certainly don’t need another robe, I want to make 5 more of these in every wild silky fabric I can find.

Mad Men vintage psychedelic bathrobe, made by Julianne Mad Men vintage psychedelic bathrobe, made by Julianne

Like so many of my projects nowadays, nearly all the materials came from my stash. The only purchase for this robe were 1/3 yd pink satin for the tie and button coverings, 6 yd pink lace, and blue ribbon binding the ruffle, for a total of $8. I had JUST. ENOUGH. FABRIC. In fact, one of the front facings had to be cut separately, because I chose to cut the back as a single piece (I was not loving the very obvious center back seam that the pattern called for).

Mad Men vintage psychedelic bathrobe, made by Julianne Mad Men vintage psychedelic bathrobe, made by Julianne

I love that the shorter version of this robe is called “street length,” so that became the inspiration for this photo shoot.

Mad Men vintage psychedelic bathrobe, made by Julianne

Ah, I wish I didn’t have to actually work today. I’d much rather drink strawberry margaritas, eat egg rolls, and watch movies on the couch all day. But I might wear this to a potluck tonight.

7

VINTAGE GIRAFFE BLOUSE

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I feel like this shirt is a little more wild that what I normally wear, but I do wear some rather bizarre outfits. If I’m going to wear an animal print, this is how I do it.

vintage giraffe blouse, made by Julianne vintage giraffe blouse, made by Julianne

vintage giraffe blouse, made by Julianne

vintage giraffe blouse, made by Julianne

The colorful giraffe fabric is a quilting cotton I picked up at Joann last year with the intention to make a different vintage pattern. The fabric has absolutely no drape, and the pattern was rather shapeless, with no darts at all. I added the bust darts immediately, and after some hemming and hawing about changing the vintage silhouette, I put in another dart at the center back.

Although I eventually deviated a lot from the pattern, I used Simplicity 7608 from 1976. I don’t wear a lot of buttoned shirts nowadays, and I generally like my tops to be more fitted, but I’ve loved these illustrations for years and decided to give it a try. Based on the sizing measurements, I added a couple inches of width to the pattern pieces. I didn’t do this the correct slash-and-spread method, but just added it to the width because I already knew I would add some tailoring to the design.

I wound up taking out most of the width I added, but I’m glad that I had enough fabric to work with. It’s great to have so much overlap at the center front; there’s no risk of buttons pulling and gaping.

vintage giraffe blouse, made by Julianne vintage giraffe blouse, made by Julianne

I love a single back dart, especially when I’m fitting a garment on myself. No worries about getting two darts even, and so easy to make adjustments! Although from these pictures I see that the dartiest part is too sharp; I need to round out the waist. I may add shoulder darts later to take out some fullness at the neck in the back, but I’m happy for now.

The pattern called for the placket facing to be cut as one piece with the shirt front, but since my fabric wasn’t wide enough I used my yellow striped cotton, and pinked the edges to reduce bulk. All seams and edges are bound in this yellow bias tape. It was my first time successfully using a bias tape maker, and like everyone else I am smitten. I had to resist the urge to run to the store to buy one in every size!

vintage giraffe blouse, made by Julianne vintage giraffe blouse, made by Julianne

I love these big nickel-plated buttons! The back wraps around the shoulders, and although this is one of the pattern’s features it doesn’t work so great on a directional print. I added the yellow band at the shoulder seam to make this overlap look more intentional.

I had been planning on adding the sleeves and Nehru collar, but once I pinned them on I felt overwhelmed by all the giraffes. Perhaps this pattern would work better with a less ostentatious print, in a fabric with more drape. In any case, I feel like this sleeveless top will be perfect with shorts at the beach.

vintage giraffe blouse, made by Julianne

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GALACTIC COTTON CANDY DRESS

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This hand-made tie dye looks like a cotton candy nebula, which is exactly what I wanted. The vintage fabric was gifted from a friend of my husband’s family, and there was just barely enough to make this reverse pleated dress. It’s a lightweight cotton, and I love that the colors hide all those unsnipped threads and potential little stains.

Galactic Cotton Candy dress, made by Julianne

The teal rayon was from my grandma’s fabric collection, so the only material purchased for this dress was the pattern ($5.40) and the zipper (~$3). Stash busted!

I started this dress one afternoon, wore it sleeveless and unhemmed to dinner that night, and finished it the next day. It was a great non-traditional Christmas dress, and I can’t wait to wear it for a bike ride!

Galactic Cotton Candy dress, made by Julianne

Continue reading →

About the pattern (Burda #108B). I rarely use patterns, and find it difficult to follow someone else’s instructions. But I managed to make a dress that pretty closely resembles the original. The reason for the teal stripe is that I didn’t have enough of my tie dye, or so I thought, because it turned out that the pattern is huge! Following my measurements, I cut out a size 40/42, adding seam allowances. I had to remove about 8″ from the pleats and side seam (which was more towards the front of my body). I was able to do some shaping through the pleats, which are designed as unflattering straight lines on the pattern. Also, the back gaped horribly at the top. I lowered the sleeve cap and added some width to the back shoulder. Aesthetic changes are fine, but I was surprised at how many changes this pattern required for a comfortable fit.

Galactic Cotton Candy dress, made by Julianne Galactic Cotton Candy dress, made by Julianne

I thought about leaving the dress sleeveless, because it fit so nicely and looked great, but in the end I’m really glad that I added sleeves. And I’m proud that I was able to get such a great fit with the woven sleeves!

The seams are finished on my serger, and I trimmed the pleats with pinking shears. The pattern calls for leaving the folds untrimmed, but there was so much extra fabric in there!

Galactic Cotton Candy dress, made by Julianne Galactic Cotton Candy dress, made by Julianne

Aesthetically, I extended the pleats about 1.5″, so that the fullness was released at my hips rather than natural waist. Obviously there is that teal inset, which was functionally inspired but I totally love now. I lowered the neckline in front and back, replaced the facings with bias tape, tapered those dumb bell sleeves, and added the contrast band to the much shorter hem. Also, of course, pockets!

Galactic Cotton Candy dress Burda #108b Galactic Cotton Candy dress, made by Julianne

The pattern reminded me of Mad Men fashion, mostly Allison’s gorgeous party dress.

I was concerned about covering too much skin and looking frumpy or juvenile, but I also didn’t want to show too much skin or look too Molly Ringwald (not that she’s a skank, but I don’t want to dress like the decade I was born in). Luckily my husband was on hand to help me with design decisions, and it turned out great!

I made these stockings too, from a luxurious silk jersey. I’d cut a dress out of the fabric, but never felt passionate enough to actually sew it together, and so I cannibalized the dress for some new stockings in my favorite color.

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