Tag Archives: fabric

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YELLOW FLORAL BIRTHDAY DRESS

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My computer has recently revived from a 3 week hiatus, and yet I’m still just using an old post. Haven’t got quite everything back up and running, and the laptop was really just an excuse to not blog. Maybe I’ll write about it later, but does anyone really care? Long story short: I’m busy sewing all day, working really hard, and also prioritizing my time off. I haven’t really done any personal sewing, and I’m waiting for photos on several large projects for clients. Theoretically I’ll be able to post every day in May.

So in the meantime here’s a post that’s all about eventually getting things done. Pictures were taken in July 2014, when I had an incredibly short cut and was still deep in platinum mania.

 

Happy birthday to meee… from 2013. I bought this fabric as a birthday gift to myself, but between other projects and design uncertainty, wasn’t able to sew it up until 14 months later. Luckily it was worth the wait!

yellow floral shift dress, made by Julianne

The yellow floral poplin in from the Lisette line at Joann. I immediately fell in love with the color combination and the paisley-inspired print. But it was that print that got me turned around. Brightly colored flowers… would that be too juvenile? I hate the idea of being ‘cute’ or saccharine, and so the fabric was folded and left in my cabinet…

Would I use a Laurel-esque shift pattern (this was right around the time that design was sweeping the blogosphere)? What about a vintage sleeveless dress? Maybe I should copy a 2005 H&M shirt dress I still wear: even with the heart print and slightly puffed sleeves, the sleek seams and short hem made me feel powerful.

yellow floral shift dress, made by Julianne

In the end, I combined all these elements. I made a complete pattern of the H&M dress, but eliminated the sleeves and collar. I used a placket inspired from my vintage pattern, though I constructed this one myself. I copied Laurel’s clean neckline, and from there added my own details.

yellow floral shift dress, made by Julianne The raw edges are serged and topstitched. The neckline and arm holes are bound with self-made bias tape, which I sewed on the front using my machine, and then whip stitched the inside and back. yellow floral shift dress, made by Julianne

yellow floral shift dress, made by Julianne

yellow floral shift dress, made by Julianne

I feel like the coral binding creates a neat outline for the wild print. The mustard thread for the buttonholes doesn’t actually match any of the 7 colors of the fabric, but it still felt like the right choice. And the gold shank buttons… somehow, I didn’t even consider that option as I imagined the perfect buttons, but they jumped out at me as I was browsing the Dill racks.

yellow floral shift dress, made by Julianne

It’s been a great summer dress so far, and of course it will do well in cooler temperatures with a cardigan and leggings.

yellow floral shift dress, made by Julianne

I already bought fabric for this year’s birthday dress. I’m not sure if I’ll have it done in time (3 weeks!) and I’m not even sure what design I will use. Perhaps I’ll make a blog post all about that… I should have it published in about 4 months!

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CHEVRON GENIE PANTS

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Jeez, this should have been posted in July! Lucky for current-me, cause I’m swamped with projects for clients that aren’t bloggy. I have a few big projects coming to completion soon, so you’ll see how busy I’ve been!

A few weeks ago I went shopping in the fabric district with some friends, and naturally we ended up at Michael Levine Loft.

fabric shopping

Aleah, Sandra, Nhi, and me

Fabric was $2.50/lb, and I walked away with 11.85 lb (Sandra had a little more). Among my haul was a swishy rayon with black and green chevrons. I wasn’t sure about the colors, because it’s dark and I rarely wear green, but the fabric was perfect for some new genie pants.

chevron genie pants, made by Juliannechevron genie pants, made by Julianne

chevron genie pants, made by Julianne

I followed my own DIY genie pants tutorial, with a couple modifications. I made these pants with pockets and side seams, and there will be a follow-up tutorial for that.

chevron genie pants, made by JulianneThe other departure is that I tapered the legs about 4″ from the inseam and side seams on both front and back. I wanted these pants to be casual lounge wear, and the super puffy legs felt so conspicuous.

chevron genie pants, made by Julianne I also made the tank top. It was a $1 remnant, and super smooth charcoal gray jersey (with rayon?). The seams were serged with red thread on the right side of the shirt, and then I topstitched them to lay flat. It’s strange to see myself wearing all dark colors!

chevron genie pants, made by Julianne

They’re comfortable and casual and I love them!

Another word from current-me: after a lot of wear, this rayon fabric is starting to pill. Also the elastic waistband is wearing out a bit; I’ll replace this with a higher-quality spadex. I still have a bunch of this fabric, but now I’m reluctant to make anything that requires a lot of effort.

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MAMI AFRIKA

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I’ve worked with Wawi Amasha for a few years, and now she’s starting to get really serious about her clothing design. These looks are all hers, but I sewed them for a gallery opening this past weekend. They were presented under the name Mami Afrika.

Wawi dresses, made by Julianne

Sewer, designer, tech designer.Wawi dresses, made by JulianneOf course I made my purple miimii dress, as well as the blue halter dress on Inobe. Wawi is on the left. Wawi dresses, made by Julianne

Wawi was showing her paintings at Hamilton Gallery in Santa Monica, and it was a fun party! In our gallery was the artwork, models wearing dresses, wine of course, and African drummers who inspired some fancy dancing.

A neighboring gallery was also hosting an opening, where there was more wine, plus vodka, couscous, gift bags, and a hyper little German man who began our conversations with “I like the look you’re experimenting with on your outfit,” because that’s what you say in Santa Monica. I don’t remember your name, but you were kinda crazy, but also fun.

Wawi dresses, made by Julianne

The fabrics were collected on Wawi’s recent trip to Kenya, and the patterns were drafted by Inobe Nicole, who also made the fabulous geometric necklaces.

I made ten pieces for the show in 4 days, and eventually developed a rhythm for the layout and construction. Sample patterns rarely come with instructions, so it’s up to be to figure out a smooth and efficient technique.   Wawi dresses, made by JuliannePrint matching! The finishing on this sleeveless jacket includes french seams, bias bound, double turned hem, and folding seams under.

Wawi dresses, made by Julianne Wawi dresses, made by Julianne

This purple skirt was my favorite piece, and that amethyst necklace Inobe made is insane!  IMG_2349

Mami Afrika designs, made by Julianne

This dress was another personal favorite.

Wawi dresses, made by Julianne

It was a week of marathon sewing, but the team was very pleased at the outcome. I’ll be doing more work with Wawi soon (like tomorrow!).

Thanks to Sam / Docta Sez for the additional photos!

 

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ANIMAL COLLECTION TEE

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This is the first project I’ve been really excited to share since Burning Man. I’ve been working the whole time, but on little things that aren’t necessarily that interesting to others. So finally, a new post!

Animal Collection teeI made this shirt for the Animal Collective show at Hollywood Bowl. I can’t even tell y’all how excited I was to finally see them! We took our friends (and PNF campmates) Matt and Marisha out for an evening of adventures and delicious beverages.

Animal Collection tee

The original idea of the shirt was much more simpler than the final product, and based on this gorgeous embroidered and beaded Hmong shirt I found on Etsy:

hmong shirt Animal Collection tee

When browsing through my Pins last week, I saw this shirt again and realized that I had recently picked up 5yd of a cotton jersey with a similar print and color scheme. (I’ve already made leggings and hotpants from the fabric too!)

The striped yolk seemed like an obvious choice, and then I noticed the orange pompom trim collecting dust on the corner of my desk, and from there it snowballed. Gold neck binding–definitely! Faux-epaulettes out of blue lace–of course! Teal and gold sleeves, left over from a dress–sew them on!

Animal Collection tee detail Animal Collection tee detail Animal Collection tee back detail

Jason was egging me on the whole time, and when I thought I had finished he suggested a little bling for the front. We sorted through every appliqué and finally landed on the gold studs for the front and silver vinyl shield for the back. He said they make the shirt difficult to describe, which is just what I was going for.

Animal Collection tee

Added bonus for all the materials coming from my supply stash. The shirt was perfect for the show and I got lots of compliments, but mostly I just felt good.

You can see more about the rainbow boots here.

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MUSE DRESS

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I’ve found myself reconsidering commercial patterns over the past few weeks. There are so many nice Muse Dresses, although it was Kristin from Very Prairie who finally inspired me to reintroduce that pink tissue paper into my life. Despite (or because of) its popularity Butterick 5130 is no longer in print, but I was able to find a copy on Etsy.

muse dress

As lovely as this dress truly is, it’s a little more romantic than my style. Although all the reviews mention how clever the pattern is for using the seam allowances as casing for the elastic, I threw that whole concept out the window and opted for highly visible exterior casings.

muse dress

I decided to use a bright color, and this red cotton jersey from Fabric Planet is perfect. Not too orange, not too pink. At first I was hesitant, because a red dress is very A Red Dress. Like, “I’m a fabulous WOman and I wear red dresses out for brunch with my gal pals!” I do not need to get my groove back, but apparently I have room for a singular red dress in my wardrobe anyway.

muse dress muse dress

I wanted the two colors to coordinate without matching. I was aiming for a slight clash of colors, and I think the purple/red combo is a perfect juxtaposition, rather than head-on collision. Obviously, aqua stitching was a must.

Like nearly everyone else, I added a waistband to make the dress less like a nightgown.

The pattern calls for a moderate-stretch knit fabric, but since the dress is made to be about three times the size of the wearer, I don’t really think the stretch is so necessary. I bet the dress would look nice in a woven silk/cotton blend, and I think it would totally work. I’m also considering a maxi length. Although I normally consider that style to be too much dress, I have an intriguing image in my mind. Maybe with shorter sleeves? And a printed skirt?

muse dressThe dress was very comfortable for a long day at work, although the lack of pockets was a problem. Of course I’m smart enough to add pockets, but the weight of my phone would make the dress pull and sag in a very strange way. This probably wouldn’t be a problem for a less-stretchy jersey. The pattern instructions were very easy to follow, although I didn’t really follow them. To allow for the gathering, the pieces are all insanely wide, so you can’t really skimp on the fabric requirement.

If I hadn’t done all those fancy casing and top stitching, the dress would probably take 3-4 hours to make. I can think of worse ways to spend an afternoon.

Honestly, I’m not sure if I would make this pattern again. Husband-in-training Jason likes the dress, but I don’t think I need more than one of this very distinctive design. And looking at these pictures, cute as they are, I’m not in love with the dress. I felt very aware of the dress all day, and I didn’t know how to accessorize it (if you consider shoes to be accessories). If I were to repeat the pattern, I think I’d feel compelled to give away this first dress. Doesn’t that sound promising to all you bloggerellas?

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EMBROIDERED GYPSY VEST

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I’m very excited about my new design, the Daniella Gypsy Vest! There’s only one of these babies, and it’s in the Etsy shop!

Daniella gypsy vest Daniella gypsy vest Daniella gypsy vest

The pointed front and high back really accentuate the waist, making me feel like a bellydancer. It looks great with a stripey outfit, but can also be worn without a shirt for some sexy festival fun, and maybe the occasional peek of underboob.

Daniella gypsy vest Daniella gypsy vest Daniella gypsy vest

Since I was planning on lining the vest I went ahead and made it reversible, because that’s awesome and so am I. The shell is made out of this amazing embroidered upholstery fabric (which some may recognize from my tribal coat), and it’s no longer available so this is very one-of-a-kind. In fact I had to very carefully cut these pieces from scrap fabric left over from the coat. The front panels of the lining are a quilting cotton that has a bandana-esque print, which allowed me to hide a pocket, the perfect size for a cell phone, cash money, and a couple business cards. The back lining is a pink and red striped jersey that will be very comfortable to wear, and is also a recycled fabric.

Daniella gypsy vest Daniella gypsy vest

I think the black and white twisted trim just sends the vest over the edge (edge of what though?). The placket is a maroon denim with pressed brass snaps, letting you dramatically rip open the vest if you’ve got something exciting to reveal.

Like I said, there’s only one version of this vest and it’s in the Etsy shop now. More fabulous combinations will be coming soon!

This vest was inspired by a design by my friend Danielle, hence the name. Thank you Ms. Danielle for the inspiration, and thank you Mr. Siadek for great photos! Also thanks for taking me to Cirque du Soleil this weekend.

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