Tag Archives: pants

0

RAINBOW SHORTS

by

Somehow in the mad rush that is preparing to leave for Burning Man, I whipped up some new shorts for my husband.

However I forgot that I was supposed to line them, and the loosely woven fabric started pulling while he wore them on the playa. Now they have a comfy, worn-in attitude that only comes from giant patches and after-the-fact lining.

rainbow pants, made by Julianne

I got this polyester upholstery fabric from Fabric Planet in Venice, and used 1 yard for the shorts. The fabric wasn’t quite wide enough, so I found a gray twill in my stash and used it all up on the side panels, waistband, and pockets. The lining fabric sat in my stash for only a few weeks, and was left over from a client’s project.

rainbow pants, made by Julianne

rainbow pants, made by Julianne

Our last name is Siadek and I love the little gold S pattern.

It’s a pattern that I drafted myself and tweaked over the years, and I feel like I’ve finally achieved a good fit for Jason. So now I’m just going to make 5 new pairs.

rainbow pants, made by Julianne

He calls these his ‘dress shorts’ and wears them to parties and other fun events, usually with sandals and his purple shirt (which I think is his favorite). He really loves this capri length, and I love making him clothing that suits his personality and comfort requirements without looking sloppy or boring.

rainbow pants, made by Julianne

 

2

CHEVRON GENIE PANTS

by

Jeez, this should have been posted in July! Lucky for current-me, cause I’m swamped with projects for clients that aren’t bloggy. I have a few big projects coming to completion soon, so you’ll see how busy I’ve been!

A few weeks ago I went shopping in the fabric district with some friends, and naturally we ended up at Michael Levine Loft.

fabric shopping

Aleah, Sandra, Nhi, and me

Fabric was $2.50/lb, and I walked away with 11.85 lb (Sandra had a little more). Among my haul was a swishy rayon with black and green chevrons. I wasn’t sure about the colors, because it’s dark and I rarely wear green, but the fabric was perfect for some new genie pants.

chevron genie pants, made by Juliannechevron genie pants, made by Julianne

chevron genie pants, made by Julianne

I followed my own DIY genie pants tutorial, with a couple modifications. I made these pants with pockets and side seams, and there will be a follow-up tutorial for that.

chevron genie pants, made by JulianneThe other departure is that I tapered the legs about 4″ from the inseam and side seams on both front and back. I wanted these pants to be casual lounge wear, and the super puffy legs felt so conspicuous.

chevron genie pants, made by Julianne I also made the tank top. It was a $1 remnant, and super smooth charcoal gray jersey (with rayon?). The seams were serged with red thread on the right side of the shirt, and then I topstitched them to lay flat. It’s strange to see myself wearing all dark colors!

chevron genie pants, made by Julianne

They’re comfortable and casual and I love them!

Another word from current-me: after a lot of wear, this rayon fabric is starting to pill. Also the elastic waistband is wearing out a bit; I’ll replace this with a higher-quality spadex. I still have a bunch of this fabric, but now I’m reluctant to make anything that requires a lot of effort.

2

GROOM’S OUTFIT

by

I got married in September 2012 at Burning Man. It was where I met my husband, where we got engaged, and where we feel most free to be whatever we want, particularly ourselves.

rainbow Burning Man wedding, Made by Julianne, photo by Blake Gardner

Jason and I designed his whole outfit together. We wanted it to be an even more colorful version of what he normally wears.

PANTS:

This in-between short/pant length is a signature of Jason’s wardrobe. I don’t personally think it’s awkward (it’s capris) and I like making them for him. So it was the obvious choice for this wedding pants. This time I made his pants from a metallic striped cotton that my mom got in Jordan a couple years ago. They have a zipper fly and elastic waist; I’ve developed this pattern just for Jason. We added bands of fabric at the bottom to correspond to my own skirt.

rainbow Burning Man wedding, Made by Julianne, photo by Blake Gardner rainbow Burning Man wedding, Made by Julianne, photo by Blake Gardner

photo by Blake Gardner

Rainbow socks were also a natural choice! We got the Converse right before we left for Burning Man, and I replaced the white laces with a metallic woven ribbon.

SHIRT:

His shirt is made from a weighty linen. I washed the fabric three times to soften it up, as well as to get it fully shrunk before cutting. I found a bolt with about 5 yards of this fabric in our storage unit, and I honestly have no idea where it came from or what it was doing there. Luckily it’s the perfect color to bring out Jason’s eyes!

We wanted the look of our wedding to be colorful, exciting, and exotic, but we didn’t want to be the white people dressing up in another culture’s aesthetic. Inspired by: yes; appropriating: no. With this in mind, I waffled back and forth on the Nehru collar and tunic length of this shirt. But Jason’s wonderful mind never saw the styling as Indian; in his mind a stand-up collar is spacey. Great design, great rational: we make a good team.

The shirt is a modified version of Simplicity 5366, which I had tested a couple months prior and so I knew exactly what changes needed to be made for the best fit.

rainbow Burning Man wedding, Made by Julianne, photo by Blake Gardner

photo by Blake Gardner

The fabulous J cufflinks belonged to Jason’s dad Jack, who passed away shortly after we met. Two weeks after our own wedding, Jason’s nephew Jack wore them for his beautiful wedding.

rainbow wedding at Burning Man, brass buttons, made by Julianne

Jason picked out the green and purple for the topstitching. We got these awesome ying-yang buttons during my first visit to the Fashion District in 2009! They are heavy and tactile and yes, honestly, a little bit steampunk. I don’t think anyone noticed, but we rotated them all the way down his shirt, so that the gold was on the left, and then the right, and then back on the left.

 

VEST:

rainbow Burning Man wedding, Made by Julianne, photo by Blake Gardner

photo by Blake Gardner

I based the pattern for this vest from one he already owned. The front stripe is another Jordanian cotton from my mom–there was just enough to cut both sides on the bias so that the pattern was going the way we wanted. One of my favorite elements from the entire outfit is the back of the vest. This metallic fabric was hand-made in Guatemala in the 60s, and was given to us by a longtime friend of the Siadek family, Valerie Maxwell (thank you Valerie!). It was exciting to work with, and in pretty great condition.

rainbow Burning Man wedding, Made by Julianne, photo by Blake Gardner Burning Man rainbow wedding, made by Julianne

photo by Blake Gardner

The lining is a vintage poly that was in my cabinet. The buttons are aligned so that the top jewels represent chakras (although we aren’t into that, but it seamed as good a reason as any).

Burning Man rainbow wedding, made by Julianne Burning Man rainbow wedding, made by Julianne

Jason was gifted the koa necklace by our campmate Teale right before the ceremony.

I think Jason looked very handsome and very himself! If you’d like to read more and see more photos, we have a whole post about getting married at Burning Man.

You can also see pictures of my bridal outfit.

Most of these gorgeous pictures were taken by Blake Gardner and Aleck Gandel – many thanks to these talented photographers as well as all the friends who both captured and contributed to our wonderful day!

0

RAINBOW BALLOON PANTS

by

I made these pants for Burning Man 2013, but they were also great for New Year’s Eve.

rainbow stripe balloon pants, made by Julianne

The metallic rainbow fabric is just that, found in the clearance section at Joann, back in 2010. The teal waistband is a wonderful modal jersey that is now all gone from my fabric cabinet (but I also have two shirts and a turban from it).

rainbow stripe balloon pants, made by Julianne rainbow stripe balloon pants, made by Julianne rainbow stripe balloon pants, made by Julianne rainbow stripe balloon pants, made by Julianne

I’d been planning on making balloon shorts out of this awesome metallic rainbow stripe, but felt that night-appropriate pants would be more spectacular. My #1 dream would have been to line the shorts with hot pink silk charmeuse to feel it sliding against my skin with every little step, but at night I tend to wear plain leggings underneath the genie pants for warmth, and so I simply used a striped cotton that was taking up space in my fabric annex (cardboard box under my desk).

I’ve been stash busting for a few months now, and I’m gaining a lot of momentum. And free space! Free space in my sewing cabinet, but not in my closet…

rainbow stripe balloon pants, made by Julianne

2

SILVER GENIE PANTS

by

First off, my husband would like me to point out that he asked me to make all of this for him. These pants are the harem version of his Disco Mechanic coveralls… Robo Genie?

silver genie pants, made by Julianne

These genie pants are perfect for Burning Man. You can layer warmer leggings underneath, and still be fabulous and comfortable. By the way, I have a matching pair of pants myself.

silver genie pants, made by Julianne silver genie pants, made by Julianne

He’s so fabulous and funny! I love that he is so comfortable with himself that he wears these clothes, and that I can make them for him. It’s not like he’s wearing this outfit to the grocery store, but he probably would if I asked him too.

Continue reading →

silver genie pants, made by Julianne silver genie pants, made by Julianne

silver genie pants, made by Julianne silver genie pants, made by Julianne

I also made his shirt and hat. The rainbow sequin tee is lined with neon orange jersey, because it was too itchy! The hems are bound in a lycra tape. The shirt’s a little short, so maybe I will add a band of another fabric.

I hand-stitched the hat back in 2009, after Jason lost a similar hat when we met at Burning Man. I used compressed cardboard for the brim, and gave it to him the first time I came out to California to visit.

silver genie pants, made by Julianne

I just made a tutorial for these pants, so check it out if you’d like to make your own.silver genie pants, made by Julianne

12

TUTORIAL: GENIE PANTS

by

By very popular request, I’ve made a tutorial for the genie pants. This is a very long post, with lots of pictures! If there’s anything that doesn’t make sense, please let me know in the comments field at the end.

DIY genie pants, made by Julianne

Click on the link to see the instructions:

Continue reading →

Some people call them harem pants, but I prefer genie pants, cause I’d rather be a genie and make magic than be in a harem. Sure, you could say that both reference confinement, servitude, and giving pleasure, in which case I would call them balloon pants. BUT WHATEVER.

For this example I am using a very stretchy lycra, but you could also use a woven fabric for the legs. I love the wide stretchy waist and leg bands, but you could use elastic on a woven fabric, or have this waistband fitted with a zipper like a pencil skirt.

Since this design has so much fullness, and my fabric is so stretchy, nothing has to be exact. I came up with this technique myself, and I’d love to hear any alternative methods.

how to make genie pants, made by Julianne

I’m making this pair of pants for my husband, so use your own measurements!

You can either cut these pants on the grain or cross grain, depending on the stretch of your fabric and layout of the print. Since they are so voluminous and stretchy, I don’t worry about seam allowances.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

STEP 1: CUTTING

These pants are made in 5 pieces: a left and right side, a waistband, and two leg bands. You need approximately 2.5 yards of fabric total (2 yd for the legs, 1/2 yd for the bands).

First, I cut the length of the pants, about 30″. You’ll need two pieces this length, one for each side (I take one 60″ piece and fold it in half. This cut should parallel to the finished edge of the fabric, and perpendicular to where it was cut off the bolt). With the waist and leg bands, the pants can be worn down to the ankle or bunched up on the calf. Like every other measurement, adjust this as you see fit.

For a very balloon fit, I like to have the pants about twice as wide as the hips (2:1). So each side piece is cut as wide as the circumference of the hips. If you don’t want your pants to be as gathered, or don’t have enough fabric, you could reduce this ratio to 1.5:1. My husband’s waist is about 40″, so I am cutting the pants to be about 80″ in the waist.

how to make genie pants, made by Julianne

In my case, each piece for the legs is 30″ long, and 72″ wide, with the stretch and selvedge across the 72″ side. Once I cut out the crotches, the top of the pants will be about 40-50″ wide.

The next step is to cut the crotch scoop. I do the front first, and base it off pants he already owns. Since these genie pants are loose and breezy, I cut the crotch lower and wider than his trousers fit.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Regular trousers laid out on the fabric to trace the scoop of the crotch

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Crotch scoop, traced from trousers

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Wider and deeper scoop, shown by the light pink line

My husband’s hips are approximately 40″, so the waist of each side piece is 40″ for a total width of 80″. Basically, I’m using the entire width of the fabric, in my case 60″. Moving to the opposite selvedge, I cut the back with the same length but a wider scoop (about 3″ deeper) to accommodate the booty. Again, not rocket science.

how to make genie pants, made by Julianne

Crotch scoop, with the back on top

Here’s a nice shot to show the crotch. The front piece is on bottom, with a “shallower” crotch scoop. The back piece, on top, is cut deeper, to accommodate dat booty as well as sitting without too much wedgie action.

Regular trousers laid out on the fabric to trace the scoop of the crotch

The shallower front crotch is used as a guideline for the back scoop. I laid the front piece on top of the back and then traced that curve.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

The front crotch is traced in pink, and then I drew the line for the deeper back scoop in blue chalk. Notice that it’s only wider, not lower.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Wider back scoop

how to make genie pants, made by Julianne

Here’s the whole piece, with 24″ in the center folded (because otherwise it’s too big to photograph on my cutting table.)

Since the fabric has so much stretch and will be holding up a lot of fabric in the pants, I make the waistband about 20% smaller than the actual waist. The length depends entirely on you, but cut it high enough that it can be doubled. In my case, the waistband is 30″ wide and 16″ high (which will be folded down to 8″ on the finished pants)

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Waistband, 30 x 16″

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Leg bands, 15 x 8″

The leg bands are just smaller versions of the waistband. Mine are 8″ high (to be doubled over to 4″) and 15″ wide.

You should have two leg bands (15 x 8″), one waistband (30 x 16″) and two leg pieces, one for the left and one for the right.

STEP 2: SEWING

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Now to the sewing! I sew the seams on my serger, and use my regular machine for the gathering stitches. If you don’t have a serger, use a zigzag or 3-step zigzag to give your seams enough thread to stretch.

I’m illustrating these steps using the smaller leg bands, but the process is the same for the waistband as well.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

A: The two leg bands, side by side

Sew the waist and leg bands each into a tube. Take this opportunity to test that the pieces are the right size for your body. You want the waistband to be tight enough to hold up the pants securely, but comfortable for lounging and getting bloated from all the beer and crackers. Likewise for the leg bands, but maybe your calves don’t get bloated so just make sure that they fit your leg snugly. Fold the bands over, wrong sides together, and pin the raw edges. I like to place my pins in quarters (dividing the entire circumference into 4 segments) to help with the gathering later.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

 Top: leg band from step A. Bottom: the leg band has been folded with its wrong sides together to that the raw edges meet. The seam is vertical, along the short edge.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

The leg band is pinned with raw edges together, right side out, and the raw edges are marked into quarters with pins.

Set the leg and waist bands to the side for now.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Then I sew the front crotches together, then the back center seam, and then the inseam as one long seam.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Crotch and inseams sewn together, and now they are starting to resemble pants!

Mark the top and legs of the pants with pins (dividing the circumference by 4).

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Gathering the fabric at the top and bottom of the pants

Next comes gathering! I’ve done this step in so many different ways, but I feel that simply sewing a long seam with low top-thread tension is the easiest. I like to use different color threads for the top spool and bobbin. I don’t have a ruffle foot because I don’t do a lot of gathering, and this works for me. Usually this tension gathers the fabric right behind the foot automatically. And so: sew the top of the pants and the bottom of each leg.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Gathered pant leg, with pins dividing the opening into quarters

Pull the thread to gather the fabric so that it’s about the size of your waist and leg bands.

Pin the leg bands onto the bottom of the legs, right sides together, aligning the band seams with the inseam and the other pins. Repeat for the waistband.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

The leg band is pinned to the gathered pant opening, with the quarter-pins lined up.

Sew the gathered pant opening onto the leg bands. Your seam should be along the gathering line. Once you stretch this seam, the gathering straight-stitch will pop, as it should.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Serging the gathered pant leg (top) onto the leg band. The pin is about to be pulled out before going under the knife.

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

how to make genie pants, Made by Julianne

Repeat for the other leg band, as well as the waistband.

AND YOU’RE FINISHED.

DIY genie pants, made by Julianne

I don’t add pockets in my stretchy pants because the weight inside them would pull the fabric in all kinds of crazy ways. I have done it with woven pants, and here’s how: Cut the legs as four pieces (right front, right back, left front, left back) and then just sew a pocket into the seam. You could also sew the top of that pocket into the waistband seam, for added stability.

If you’re interested, you can see more photos of the finished pants.

1 2 3